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Hold the Fava Beans, It’s Time to Get to Know Chianti

The word Chianti conjures up red table wine perfect for sauce-heavy Italian-American cuisine. It’s the portly bottle known to wear a fiasco, or straw basket, for extra Old World kitsch.

Chianti
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That is one kind of Chianti, sure, and a perfectly serviceable one at that. But you can’t put this world famous wine in a small, decidedly Americanized box. The world of Chianti is one of the most recognizable around, yet most know very little about what ends up in the bottle and how truly diverse those flavors can be.

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Let’s start with the basics. Chianti hails from Tuscany, in the breathtaking Italian countryside in and around cities like Florence and Siena. These are the postcard images that many associate with wine in general, fit with neat rows of vines, verdant hills diced up by pointy cypress trees, and ancient villages. While the regulations vary a bit depending on where exactly the wine is produced, the focus is very much on Sangiovese, the main grape in the Chianti picture.

Oddly enough, the first documented version of Chianti wine was a white, made from grapes grown near the Chianti Mountains. The makeup of the wines is a bit of a mystery and a long one at that. Ultimately, though, a man by the name of Bettino Ricasoli settled on a recipe of sorts in the mid-1800s. He proclaimed Chianti to be a mix of Sangiovese (70%), Canailo (15%), Malvasia (10%) and the 5% balance composed of some native red varieties.

Italy’s famed wine body, the DOC, would essentially immortalize the blend a century later, making it official in the 1960s. By then, the world had become used to the red blend, thirsting for the food-friendly wine especially after the Second World War. As mass production took over, the wine quality was lessened and imbibers lost interest. Thankfully, a Super Tuscan movement, focused on additional native varieties, along with some experimentation and new rules years later, reinvigorated the Chianti movement.

Here’s the jest: Chianti is made up of eight sub-regions within its expansive Tuscan boundaries. Chianti Classico is the best-known, built around four communes and originally set in stone way back by the Medici family. Wines made from here, located in the core of Tuscany, wear it proudly on their bottles, designated by the quintessential black rooster. Here, the Arno River winds through a mix of chalky and clay-dominated soils. To the northeast is another pretty iconic Chianti region in Rufina, a name red wine drinkers might already know.

So, if you want the traditional stuff, look for the black rooster on the label. Otherwise, simply look for the Chianti name as it’s tied to both Tuscany and Sangiovese-driven blends. Part of the fun is the flexibility — the blending regulations allow for a certain amount of freedom and new styles, like what the fruit is fermented in and how it’s aged, broadening the flavor possibilities.

Know this: Chianti is much more than a dry red suitable for spaghetti. It can be anything from light and fruity to bold and lower-toned, showing earth and leather. It can even offer some tobacco and spice and juicy red fruit flavors that beg for some balsamic or fresh tomatoes (or both). I’m constantly in awe of the sizable style spectrum at play via Tuscany’s most celebrated wine.

As one of the largest Italian exports, there’s a lot of Chianti to choose from. Even better, it tends to be a value with many of the best options falling within the $20-$35 range. Here are some to look out for that will elevate your appreciation of the famed Old World red:

Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rufina

Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rufina
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Made from grapes grown in the small subregion of Rufina, this take on Chianti reflects the resident high-elevation vineyards in the form of glowing flavors and food-friendly acidity. It’s also a tremendous value.

Cavaliere D’Oro Chianti Classico Riserva

Cavaliere D’Oro Chianti Classico Riserva
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A well-distributed wine that sums up classic Chianti in a nutshell, this offering mixes savory elements with tart cherry pie flavors. Sporting the “riserva” name, the wine was aged two years in the barrel, the minimum requirement for the title.

Monte Bernardi Retromarcia Chianti Classico

Monte Bernardi Retromarcia Chianti Classico
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Made entirely of biodynamically farmed Sangiovese, this wine is fermented in a mix of stainless steel and concrete. It’s got a lot going on, from baking spices and dried herbs to plum and citrus.

Mark Stock
Mark Stock is a writer from Portland, Oregon. He fell into wine during the Recession and has been fixated on the stuff since…
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The words Italy and wine generally direct the brain straight toward pasta-friendly reds like Chianti and Nebbiolo. The well-versed know there’s an entire galaxy of overshadowed white wines within the country’s borders. Many of these varietals are native to Italy and offer something incredibly distinctive in the glass.
In terms of overall production, Italy is an absolute heavyweight. The Mediterranean nation makes almost one out of every five bottles in the world, placing it ahead of even France in output. Amid all of that grape crushing and barrel aging are some lesser-known wines that can offer something with a little more lasting power than your run-of-the-mill Pinot Grigio.
Next time you’re at the bottle shop, perusing the Italian section of the restaurant wine list, or chatting up your favorite wine bar staff, look to these names. They are some of the most exciting and up-and-coming whites in all of Italy.

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There are a lot of visually pleasing, storybook tales in wine, and surely Montepulciano is one of them. The name is essentially three-pronged, referring to the gorgeous Tuscan town as well as a pair of distinctive red wine types.
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The Montepulciano name here is merely a reference to the Italian city. An ancient wine, its first reference appeared in the 8th Century. Prior to the early 20th Century, it was given the long-winded title of “Vino Rosso Scelto di Montepulciano.” One of the first commercial producers, Adamo Fanetti, offered the “nobile” (meaning noble) moniker in 1930. His wines were beloved in Tuscany and soon many other producers hopped aboard. By 1966, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano was handed official DOC status.
Thought to be a quintessential Tuscan red, the wine is medium in weight, generally showing stone fruit flavors, well-integrated tannins, and a healthy amount of acid. It’s arguably the ultimate pizza wine but does well with all kinds of dishes. As with a lot of popular Old World wines, there’s typically a pastoral element to the wine, often in the form of earth and spice or tobacco, even leather.
Moving on to Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. As the name indicates, the wine is made from grapes grown in the Abruzzo region. Strangely enough, it’s nowhere near Tuscany. This photogenic spot east of Rome is set around the coastal town of Pescara, overlooking the stunning Adriatic Sea. Pretty as the coastline is, much of the winegrowing happens in the foothills of the nearby mountains.
Here, a large share of Montepulciano is grown, Italy’s second-most grown native grape species behind only —you guessed it — Sangiovese. Experts aren’t quite sure how the grape got its name but some assume that early on, it was believed that Sangiovese and Montepulciano were the same grape. It’s a reasonable theory given that the flavors are pretty similar and the grapes behave alike in the cellar.
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It’s a deep wine, with dark fruit flavors and, often, a bit more extraction. Compared to its namesake Nobile wine, the Abruzzo version is equally chewy and tannic, but less acidic. Often, it’s a bit more on the concentrated or jammy end of the fruit spectrum. It can show a dash of herbs, like oregano or tarragon. In addition to Abruzzo, the wine is made in regions like Marche and Puglia.
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Ready to get your Montepulciano on? Here are a handful to try:

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