There’s no doubt that in recent years, watches have gained more attention, and not only as a stylish accessory. Apart from a great finishing touch for your look, timepieces have become one of the trendiest collector’s items to grab. Although watch collecting has always existed, recent new watch trends have enticed many to start their line of favorite watches. For first-time buyers, the world of watch buyers can be overwhelming and confusing.
With various terms and lingo to look out for, buying just one watch can be a difficult task. Thankfully, the majority of all the watch companies use the same terms to describe their item. Purchasing a watch, no matter which one, is a great investment. With any investment, it’s key to know exactly what you are purchasing and how it works. Knowing the following set of terms will help aid in your watch-buying process and help you understand your watch a little bit more.
Accuracy
A watch’s accuracy refers to how well a watch can keep time compared to a specific time system, such as UTC or atomic clock. The amount of seconds over within 24 hours is the factor that can determine how accurate your clock is.
Analog
Analog watches use hands and markers to display the time. While analog watches might require more work to keep accurate time, they are regarded highly compared to digital watches that only display numerals.
Annual Calendar
An annual calendar watch is a piece that will display the day of the week, month, and date. Annual calendar watches will sometimes also display the lunar phases on the dial. Manual watches might require extra maintenance at the end of February, to reestablish the date on its 30-31 day cycle.
Automatic
Unlike quartz and mechanical movements, automatic movements function on their own using the arm motion and wrist of its user to wind the spring. This function powers the watch and gives it sufficient energy to power itself throughout the day. Depending on the type of automatic watch, some pieces will only store power when the user moves in one direction. More advanced automatic watches will store power when moved in both directions. Rolex was one of the first luxury watch brands to take advantage of the automatic movement and has succeeded in establishing it in their most prolific pieces.
Balance Springs
Attached to the balance wheel, the balance springs are a piece of metal or silicon that regulates the swaying motion of the balance wheel.
Balance Wheel
The balance wheel of a watch is similar to the heart of the body. For the watch, the balance wheel is the heart in charge of its ability to keep time. Oftentimes, the balance wheel will also be referred to as just the balance of a watch. The balance is also similar to the function of a pendulum in a pendulum clock. This weighted part is what sways the watch to move in one direction to accurately portray time.
Barrel
On a watch, the barrel is the metal box that houses and releases the energy that powers the watch. Often the barrel will be a cylindrical metal box covered by a metal ring with gear teeth. This barrel contains the watch’s mainspring, which powers up the piece.
Bezel
Made out of metal or ceramic, the bezel of a watch typically talks about the outer ring on a case that protects the crystal and frames the dial. The bezel can serve either decorative or functional purposes. On GMT watches, the bezel can serve as an indicator. On other watches, the bezel can serve as a countdown or compass or can be a measurement of speed or distance.
Bi-Directional Rotating Bezel
Typically found on dive watches, a bi-directional rotating bezel refers to an external ring around the crystal that can rotate clockwise and counterclockwise. This ring can aid divers to accurately time their dives, without exposing the watch’s crystal.
Bridge
The bridge of a watch is key to the correct timekeeping and integrity of the watch. Although many craftsmen will use the bridge for engravings and other design details, the bridge is a metal plate that is screwed into the watch that houses the watch’s movement. The bridge holds and aligns the movement in place to keep the watch functioning.
Brushed
Brushed refers to the texture given to a watch’s metal coating that has parallel running grains. The brushed texture gives the watch a satin and matte finish. This finishing can usually be long-lasting and much more resistant to damage.
Calibre and Movements
When reading descriptions of watches, one of the most prominent aspects to look toward is the calibre or movement. Often used interchangeably, the calibre of a watch simply refers to the mechanism that powers the watch and its features. Watch companies will often introduce their branded movements with modern advancements unique to their pieces. However, in most cases, watches will fall in either a quartz or mechanical movement.
Quartz movements will often move in a ticking motion that moves once a second. In most affordable and low-cost watches, you’ll find quartz movement, as these require fewer mechanics to operate. Quartz movements are battery-operated and don’t rely on much manual maintenance other than battery replacements. On the other hand, mechanical movements move in a sweeping pattern and often have high levels of craftsmanship. Using gears and springs, mechanical movements allow for much more precision and take more skill to craft. Since mechanical movements are considered a work of art itself, you’ll often find that these watches will have clear case-backs, allowing users to see the mechanical movement at work.
Case
When speaking of the watch aesthetics, there’s no doubt that cases are one of the first factors to consider. Cases are simply a metal container that protects the watch movement. Watch cases can come in various shapes, such as circular, rectangular, and square. The case size will also play an important factor, as cases can often come in the same design but in multiple sizes to best fit the user.
Chronograph
If you’re taking a look at watches, and one is displayed as a chronograph watch, it simply means that the piece is multi-functional. Traditionally, chronograph watches serve as a display watch and stopwatch at once. This double function allows users to be able to take time without having to affect their ability to tell regular time simultaneously. While typically chronographs have these two functions, more modern and complex watches will have more chronograph features. In some cases, complex chronograph watches will have a third ability to tell time down to the seconds. The more chronographs in a watch, the more ability you’ll have to take time to the exact point.
Chronometer
If you’re looking for the highest precision of time, a chronometer watch is what you seek. A chronometer is a type of watch that can’t be more than four seconds faster or six seconds slower than the referenced time every 24 hours. Chronometer watches are typically certified to prove their precision and can be done so by the brand itself or an independent third-party.
Complication
There’s no doubt that a watch’s primary function is to be able to display time to users accurately. However, modern watches are often full of other tasks that give users even more functionality. These other functions on the watch might be known as complications. Watch complications refer to functions on a watch that have nothing to do with time, such as alarms, calendars, and time zones. GMT watches contain a complication that allows users to know the time zone in another location.
Countdown
Countdown refers to the feature on certain watches that can help establish how much time is left until a desired point. While the countdown feature isn’t common on many analog watches, the inverse feature is a staple on dive watches such as the Rolex Sea-Dweller and Submariner.
Crystal
Another aspect of a watch to consider is the watch’s crystal. Also referred to as a watch glass on occasion, this is the transparent cover that protects the face of the watch and can come in various materials. Some of the most common materials are acrylic, mineral glass, and sapphire. Each crystal has various advantages and disadvantages, ranging from the look to the hardness of the crystal. You’ll also find crystals in various shapes like flat, domed, curved, and double domed. The shape of the crystal will come down to preference, while the material is more suited to the user’s activity and wear.
Dial
One of the most prominent aspects of the watch is the dial. The watch’s dial refers to the face of the watch that tells time. A dial can come in various colorways and marker combinations. The design elements of a dial can help give users a more stylish and personalized look to their piece. While it’s traditional to see a white dial, more watches are exploring using bright and bold colored dials to get a more statement look. For those looking for a watch that can help add a touch of personality to their wardrobe, the dial is one of the most crucial aspects to consider when purchasing.
Dive watch
Another type of watch, the dive watch is a piece used by divers that have had to meet certain standards to be classified as a dive watch. Usually, dive watches will need to meet a water resistance threshold, as well as prove to be safe to use in deep underwater conditions. Dive watches will have various specific components that ensure divers are safe and the piece can function in and out of the water.
Escapement
A watch’s escapement is the aspect of the mechanism that releases impulses to the watch’s balance wheel to run the timekeeping function. As well as releasing impulses, the escapement releases the gear train to keep the hands moving forward.
Frequency
A watch’s frequency refers to the number of oscillations, or swinging, of the mainspring and balance wheel over a period of time. You’ll see the amount of frequency measured in Hertz (Hz) or vibrations/beats per hour (vph/bph).
Gears
A watch’s gears are the pieces in its mechanism that can help speed up the turning of the mainspring that powers the watch. These pieces are typically brass or metal wheels that are collectively known as a gear train.
GMT
A GMT watch refers to a type of watch that has two central hour hands. One hand will mark the local time, while the other refers to a second-time zone on a 24-hour clock. The GMT watch is the best option for those who want to keep track of two or more time zones.
Gold Plating
A gold-plated watch is a timepiece with a thin layer of gold applied to the surface of the metal base. The gold can be placed using electroplating and is used to strengthen the base metal against damage and wear.
Hand
The hands of a watch are used to point to the hours and minutes on the piece. Typically, watches will come with two hands that point to the hour and minutes. Hands can also be used to point to other pieces of information like the day or power reserve.
Helium Escape Valve
A helium escape valve, or HEV, is a one-way small valve placed on the side of a watch that aids in situations of decompression. Found in dive watches used in extreme depths, the HEV allows helium gas molecules to escape the watch. The valve can be automatic or manual. An automatic HEV will instantly release helium molecules when it reaches a certain pressure point. Manual HEVs have to be unscrewed by the user to start releasing the molecules.
Horology
Horology can refer to the art or study of time. It can also refer to the art and craft of making watches or clocks.
Hour Markers
Hour markers, or sometimes hour indices, are the markings on the watch that symbolize each hour or time division. Hour markers can come in various ways, from numeral symbols to dashes.
Indices
Indices refer to the markings on the watch that can symbolize hours or minutes on a watch’s dial. These indices can replace numerals or be used in combination with them.
Jewels
Jewels on a watch are synthetic gems that are used to create friction between all of the moving parts. They can come as synthetic rubies or sapphires and allow the watch to move freely and smoothly.
Lugs
Lugs are small pieces of metal placed at the top and bottom of the watch to connect to the bracelet or strap. These lugs keep the bracelets attached to the dial and can often be the easiest aspect to lose or break after frequent use.
Luminesce
A watch’s luminosity or luminesce often refers to the indices or time markers that have been coated by the brand to glow in dark lighting. The luminosity of a watch can help you use your watch day and night with ease. The indices typically coated include the hour markers and hands.
Mainspring
The mainspring is the part of the watch that powers its movement. A watch’s mainspring is housed in its barrel. In a mechanical watch, the mainspring is tightly coiled as it is being wound, when it unwinds, it releases power that keeps the watch running.
Moonphase
A moonphase is a part of the watch that typically tells you the current cycle of the lunar moon. Moonphases will typically be displayed in a separate sundial and are specific to moon-phase watches. While not every watch includes a moonphase, they are usually an aesthetic addition to any watch.
Panda
An aesthetic feature, a panda watch refers to watches with a lightly-colored dial and dark-colored sub-dials, mimicking the coloring of a panda. Watches can also have a reverse panda feature, which would inverse the coloring.
Perpetual Calendar
A perpetual calendar is the part of a watch that gives you the accurate date, including the leap years.
Power Reserve
The power reserve is the amount of energy left on a watch’s mainspring. This will typically indicate how much time is left until the watch needs winding. A power reserve indicator will usually be placed on the back or dial of a watch to indicate how much time your watch has left in its winding.
Pushers
Often named pushers, push-pieces, or push-buttons, the pushers on a watch allude to the button often located outside of the case that controls the watch’s various functions. You’ll commonly find pushers on chronograph watches, which help set the time on the watch.
Quartz
A quartz watch refers to timepieces that use a battery to run its device.
Rattrapante
A rattrapante watch is a piece with a chronograph complication that has an extra seconds hand that can help measure two different actions at the same time. This allows users to measure another event, without interfering with the initial time measurement.
Retrograde
Instead of going in a full circle, a retrograde is an indicator that finished a cycle and returns to its first position in an arc, rather than continuing the cycle. These indicators can often be used to symbolize power reserves, hours, minutes, or seconds.
Screw-Down crown
Another feature made for dive watches, is a screw-down crown watch is a timepiece with a sealed screw-down crown. Screwed into the case, the crown is sealed and protected against water or dust. This feature helps keep your watch protected when exposed to the elements.
Strap/Bracelet
While it might seem like it, the strap and bracelet can play a major part in your watch. This aspect of the watch is the material that ties it around your wrist. A bracelet is typically made out of metal, while a strap is used when made out of a leather or fabric material. The bracelet or strap will typically match in some way with the aesthetics of the watch, but most of the time, it can be replaced.
Subdial
The subdial is a smaller dial that is placed inside of the watch’s main dial. A watch can have several subdials and can be used for various functions. A subdial can function as a timer or stopwatch or give you more specific information. Often, brands will also refer to a subdial as a counter or register.
Tachymeter
The tachymeter is a function on certain watches that can be used to measure speed over a defined distance. This can usually be used in cases of sports or races, where the distance is predefined.
Tourbillion
Considered some of the top luxury items, tourbillion watches are those that have a small cage that contains the balance wheel and escapement and rotates on its own. This rotation on its axis allows the mechanism to cancel the effects of gravity for higher accuracy and precision.
Uni-Directional rotating bezel
Unlike the bi-directional rotating bezel, the uni-directional bezel can only rotate in one direction, usually counterclockwise. The uni-directional rotating bezel is made to avoid any accidental bumps in the water that could prematurely move the bezel.
Water resistance
A watch’s water resistance indicates how far a watch can be submerged before seizing to function. You’ll typically find a watch’s water resistance displayed with dive watches and will be determined by various measurements such as meters, bars, or atmospheres. Water resistance is key if you’ll be using your watch in activities that could come into contact with water. Watches with high amounts of complications will typically have no water resistance and are recommended to stay far from water to prevent breakage.
Winding
Winding refers to the movement on the watch that pertains to the inner movement. For manual-winding watches, users will need to physically wind-up the watch to keep it working. Automatic watches contain a rotor that will do the winding with any arm movement. The winding motion is performed by the watch’s mainspring, which powers the watch.
