There are some styles that disappear and then come back with a vengeance. See the mom jean over the past decade with women everywhere. Then there are styles that just stay in our lexicon and never fade. Whether it is something simple like the undying coolness of a tee and jeans or the never fading stylish trend of layering, sometimes we just love something so much that we refuse to let it die. One that we have loved forever is the men’s sweater over a dress shirt. Why do we buy into this idea? What is it about this layering technique that has us smitten every cold weather season?
The answer may not be straightforward, but we think it is because it adds depth to casual outfits like a button-up and pants and dressier outfits like a sport coat and jeans. In any case, there is a way to do this so you always look fantastic, and then there are those other ways. Follow the below tips and you will never look like the step-dad from The Santa Clause. Be honest, you went and looked up whether or not Dr. Neil Miller was actually wearing one, didn’t you.
With a V-neck
The V-neck sweater is the go-to for the style with a dress shirt underneath. This works the best for a few reasons. The first, and most obvious is that the dipping collar allows more room to show off the shirt underneath. The second reason, and maybe the most useful, is that the shape of the collar is the same as a vest. The V-shape allows you to wear a tie along with the collar to keep it in place and still look great under a suit coat. Here are some tips for wearing this sweater with a dress shirt:
- Wearing a stiff collar dress shirt will keep a polished look and will showcase the knot of the tie.
- The fit is extremely important as you don’t want it to be so tight you can see the button placard or the tie outline underneath it.
- For a casual look, roll the sleeves of the dress shirt once over the cuff of the sweater and lose the tie.
- Stick to structured tie knots that are middle-sized. Small knots make the shirt look too big for you and big knots take up the entire opening.
With a crew neck
This is very similar to the same look above, only we lose the extra space in the opening and it is a tight crew collar. This look is often times more casual and doesn’t look as good with a smart casual look. That means there are some foolproof ways to make this style look perfect in your casual to semi-dressed up events.
- Stick to the button-down collar dress shirts or sport shirts anytime you can. If your collar is outside your sweater collar here it can look like a rugby polo more than a thought out look. A button-down collar keeps the tabs in check.
- This is the best look for jeans and a sport coat. But the sport coat should be more casual. Think tweed or cashmere. If you can get one with elbow patches, that is the dream here.
- Chunky sweaters are the way to go here, so ditch the thin merino wool and go for the fisherman’s sweaters to make this look a callback to Dawson and his pals.
The prep
Ok, we know what you are thinking, this is the definition of frat boy. But go with us here. Old money style is raging back into the forefront of the fashion world. Vintage looks are slipping back little by little and before long we will all be dressed in zoot suits or Oxford campus dress. This look is a great way to stand out without having to wear the sweater if the weather becomes unseasonably warm. Now, here are the things to keep in mind:
- Ditch the shorts and boat shoes. Here is the truth, if you are wearing shorts and boat shoes, the weather is likely not going to be cool enough to need the sweater so it is simply for show. That is when it looks like you are right off the Harvard rowing team, and not in the good way. We would make fun of it, but their daddy would sue us.
- Keep the sweater a solid. A pattern on this sweater will stand out and distract from the rest of the look, and it is basically an add on at this point. Keep it as a white, light blue, gray, or black depending on the look of the ensemble.
- Don’t tie it too tight. We all remember using mom’s towels to make a cape by tying it around our necks. This shouldn’t look like that. Simply tie it one time (like the first step to tying your shoes) and leave it loose. Let gravity do the work.
With a cardigan
Ah yes, the Mr. Rogers look. The cardigan is an underrated hero in your wardrobe and when you wear it over a dress shirt, it can accomplish a lot of different goals. The first is it can dress up an otherwise plain button-up and chinos. The second is it can take the place of a sport coat or suit coat. Depending on what kind of cardigan you have, this is how you wear them over a dress shirt:
- If it is a chunky cardigan, wear it with denim and a button-down collar to keep the whole look on the same level. If you want to elevate this look, opt for some luxury leather loafers or chelsea boots. If you want to keep it really casual, keep the cardigan open.
- If it is a thin cardigan, use it the same way you would use a V-neck and wear it under a jacket and over a dress shirt and tie. You may want to keep this a solid in this situation too. Keep in mind two things: One, never button the bottom button, same as your vest. And two, if it is the same color as the tie but not the suit, it will look like a prom look, so be mindful of your coloring.
Wearing a sweater over a dress shirt is a timeless look and is the perfect way to add depth to your fall and winter wardrobe. Master the above and you will own the attention in the office or on the street.
