You want to learn about the ocean. You want to observe what’s going on in the ocean because you have to have respect for the ocean if you want to surf. You want to surf safely. Find an instructor. Have good manners and spirit in the water, and everybody will get along because you have to share waves, especially in a place like Byron, it gets really crowded.
Don’t think too hard. Just look at surfing like a dance. It’s something you practice and don’t think too much and go along with the flow.
Learn how to paddle really good to get your paddling strength up. Paddling is the key to surfing good, developing your paddling skills.
Find a surfboard that floats you in the water good. Don’t find a tiny little board and think you’re going to be Kelly Slater in five minutes. It’s easier when you start with a long board, then what you do is develop your skills so you can surf something a little bit shorter.
Learn how to trim on the surfboard. Keep the board nice and flat, and learn how to fit into the wave.
Stand up in one sweeping motion so your feet land at the same time on the surfboard, and then you can center yourself. You have to be prompt.
For more information, visit rustymillersurf.com.
