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Bulova’s new MIL-SHIPS watch revives a 1950s military design in bronze

You'll love the new Bulova MIL-SHIPS

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Bulova MIL-SHIPS
Bulova MIL-SHIPS Bulova / Bulova

Bulova’s latest timepiece tells a deep story, which is centered around the brand’s evolution over the past 150 years. The MIL-SHIPS timepieces honor the brand’s history of developing military watches.

Back in the 1950s, the US Navy was looking for a watch that could withstand tough conditions, so Bulova stepped in and created the Bulova MIL-SHIPS-W-2181 Submersible. This submersible watch was watertight, resistant to water vapor, visible in darkness, and equipped with a rotatable bezel. However, it was never available commercially and while testing was successful, Bulova didn’t proceed to production, leaving a handful of prototypes in limbo.

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That is until 2021 when it was brought back to life. It was given a beautiful makeover, which makes it look quite stylish—something to keep up with the changing times. It’s worthwhile to note the casing’s design was passed down from the original timepiece.

Now, the Bulova MIL- SHIPS watch has a CuSn8 bronze case, meant to be reminiscent of 19th-century diving helmets. As a watch that draws inspiration from old diving gear, this timepiece creates a smooth balance between retro and modern aesthetics.

The president of Citizen Watch America, Jeffery Cohen, said, “When envisioning the 150th-anniversary edition of our iconic MIL-SHIPS timepiece, Bulova immediately knew that bronze would play a pivotal role in its design. This decision wasn’t made lightly—it was rooted in both the aesthetic appeal and historical significance of this remarkable material.”

Features include a dial with the aluminum bi-directional bezel insert, a double-domed sapphire crystal, and a bicolor moisture indicator strip. The watch is powered by a 21-jewel automatic movement with a 60-hour power reserve. The case back is embossed to commemorate the 150th anniversary. One departure is the strap — it now features a robust rubber base with a Cordura inlay (the strap was previously a nylon NATO strap). The strap has also been widened from 16mm to 18mm.

It’s available in two colors: navy blue and olive green. Both have a $1,195 price tag.

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Nathan S.R
Nathan S.R
Nathan has devoted his life to collecting watches, studying horology, reviewing watches, and writing about timepieces. As a…
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