Shop smart: What you should be paying for a suit

Whether you’re just starting out and are looking for your first suit, or you have been wearing suits for a long time and are looking to overhaul your wardrobe, there is a little apprehension about diving into shopping for a new suit. You could be buying a suit for a special event, or you may wear a suit every day and need to replace some that have gotten older and are on their last leg. Either way, the market has likely changed, or you may not know what to expect in the suit world. So, we’re going to jump in and help you figure out what you should be paying. You may be asking yourself a simple question like, “How much are men’s suits?” Unfortunately, the answer is far from simple.

But, no fear, we here at The Manual specialize in complicated answers. So here is a breakdown on what you should expect when you head to a shop or go online (we suggest the former if you are new to the process).

Factors that affect price

Here is the truth: suit makers can charge whatever they want (within the market). As long as there is a demand for their product, they can charge you as much as they want because someone is willing to pay for it. Because of that, you may feel like you are overpaying for something that isn’t worth it. Trust that some suitmakers are worth every penny. Sure, some brands are overpriced, but largely speaking, there are some very good reasons that some suits are extremely more expensive than others. Here are some factors that can cause a suit to skyrocket out of your price range.

1. Brand – This one seems to be the most often thought of because it is on our face. If you have heard of the brand, then you probably assume it is more expensive because of that fact. That’s partly right, but that is also a chicken and an egg thing. You may know of the brand because they are good enough that everyone wants one. Take Tom Ford; why do you know his name? Because he has been in the fashion industry for a long time and even outfitted James Bond when Daniel Craig donned the tux. Because he has a combination of notoriety, his suits can run you upwards of $6K.
2. Fabric – This is another that is sometimes misunderstood. Most suits are some weave of wool. Shouldn’t that make most suits the same price? Not necessarily. Not all wool is made the same. Take Alain Dupetit, for example. You can go on that website and pick up a three-piece suit for under $100. Sounds like a good deal? Well there is the simple matter that the fabric isn’t as good and you’ll being buying replacements much more often.
3. Make-up – There are many ways to make a suit. The lining is one way to test the quality of the garment. There are two ways to see if the suit jacket is worth the high price or not. The first is to check the way it is attached to the jacket shell. If it is stitched, then it is higher quality and worth more. If not, then it is adhesive and not worth a hefty price tag. Doesn’t mean it is a bad suit by any means, just cheaper. The second way is to check what is called the canvas. More expensive suits have a thicker canvas between the shell and the lining to help keep its shape. If it is covering the entire inside of the jacket then it is “full canvas” and worth more of your hard earned money. “Half canvas” is when it stops below the arms and is a way to save money.

Custom vs. the rack

Knowing the difference between custom or made-to-measure and off-the-rack can be the difference between overpaying for a suit that isn’t going to fit you as well as the salesman promised. In the general sense, the former is more expensive because they take more one one time to focus on getting the fit perfectly for you. The second is less expensive because they are mass-produced and you will have to find something that fits in the store. There are pluses and minuses for each,h and they have their own (general) price points. Remember that suit makers and brands can charge what they want, so these are mostly general with definite outliers.

• Custom – $2500 to $6000. The process of getting yourself a custom suit is unmatched. There is a confidence in knowing that a professional who knows more than you about the ins and outs of fitting a suit to a body took a look at you and put ruler to body and pencil to paper to create something truly just for you. This suit looks and feels better and will last longer if cared for. The downsides? You will pay for the privilege, and this process can take months to get you one suit.
• Off the rack – $100 to $3000. There are two kinds of off the rack shopping experiences: Nested and separates. The nested suits have a pair of pants that come with the jacket and are sized in what is called a drop. Most have a six inch drop, which means if you wear a 46 jacket (Short, Regular, or Long) the pants will be a 40 waist. Before you say there is no way, most dress pants fit slightly bigger so these are going to fit like a 37 or 38 jean. Any differences can be made up with tailoring. Separates are mass-produced jackets and pants that are designed to go together but are sold separately so you can mix and match. If you have a swimmer’s body and wear a 42 jacket and a 32 pant, this is the way to go. They are cheaper, and they are faster. Downside? You will replace more often and make up at least part of the price difference in tailoring.

Don’t forget the tailoring

Finally, the part of suit buying almost everyone forgets about when they head out to shop—the tailoring. You are a unique person. Your body is different than everyone else. The combination of fitness, nutrition, wear and tear, and genetics means that there is no suit (except for the incredibly fortunate few), especially mass-produced, that is going to fit you perfectly off the rack. That means you have to go through the process of getting it tailored to fit you perfectly. That means there are dozens of areas the tailor may have to touch, including:

1. Hems
2. Cuffs
3. Waist
4. Pant Legs
5. Sides of the jacket
6. Collar
7. Buttonholes

If you are lucky, all you will need is the hems done. But it is possible that you need many of these done, which can run you hundreds and hundreds of dollars. God forbid you put on or lose weight. This can effectively erase the price difference between a high-end nested suit and a low end custom. Keep in mind that customs often come with free tailoring for life.

With that in mind, you can expect to spend as little as $100 or as much as $6000 on a suit—whatever is best for your lifestyle and your budget. Clear as mud? We thought so; now you are armed.