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Fall’s secret weapon: How to wear a flannel

Wear the manliest of garments well

man in glasses and flannel
Kauê Lutz / Pexels

There are men we grew up watching on TV, either in our favorite shows or the ones everyone watched, that rocked a flannel shirt. Every time Tim “The Toolman” Taylor destroyed something on Tool Time, we always laughed when the flannel-clad Al showed up to fix it for him. When Lorelai came into Luke’s Diner to beg him for coffee, we watched the girls swoon over his open flannel and backward cap. Now, we are the guys fixing messes and rocking the open flannel. Maybe you get the same reaction as Luke, or perhaps you don’t, but we will do all we can to ensure you have the best chance by teaching you how to wear a flannel correctly. The flannel is one of the best men’s wardrobe staples, and we will show you how to wear it to maximize its effectiveness.

What is a flannel

Man in flannel with camera
Balazs Busznyak / Unsplash

We all know what flannel is, right? You would be surprised how often it is misnamed. For instance, flannel is a fabric, not a pattern. So frequently, people call a shirt a flannel simply because it is a plaid pattern. While flannel is traditionally seen in a plaid pattern, it absolutely doesn’t need to be. As a matter of fact, you may start to see flannel bed sheets that are a solid color. However, they are considered flannel thanks to the process the fabric goes through to achieve a soft and cozy feel.

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What is that process? Glad you asked. Essentially, the cotton (traditionally cotton in the 16th Century in Wales but expanded to include wool and synthetic fibers) is brushed with a fine metal, which raises the fibers and gives what we in the biz call a nap. That is the soft feel you get when you touch your flannel shirt. So, when you say you are wearing your flannel shirt today, remember it is a fabric treatment, not a pattern.

Now that you understand that, there are three primary ways to wear a flannel shirt.

As the statement

Man with open flannel
Brooke Cagle / Unsplash

You love your flannel shirt. And you should. Outside of the jeans, it is going to be your best friend in the fall. Especially if you wear it right and get all the attention we are hoping for. So you want to make the flannel your statement. You want to let it speak for itself. Maybe you want it to be your calling card this fall and winter. We get it, we would do that too. When you see a lumberjack, they do it. When you see Wolverine wearing it in Canada as a lumberjack in that movie we don’t speak of, he did it quite well. Here is how you do it.

  1. It should be the only pattern on your body: solid denim and a solid shirt or jacket over it. Let the pattern speak for itself.
  2. The rest of the colors on your body should be neutrals. Don’t steal from the attention your flannel is about to get. Instead, play everything else down.
  3. If you want a classic look, wear it closed like a typical button-up, with denim and a hat.
  4. Wear it open for a carefree look. If you want some forethought, wear a tee that is the same color as one of the plaid flannel colors. Typically, the dark color looks the best, but either works.

As outerwear

Man in flannel shacket
Gary Barnes / Pexels

We talked about the fashion of a flannel. The guy that wants to show it off. The guy who wants everyone to revel in his manliness in the classic shirt. Now, let’s talk about the guy who doesn’t care about that. Let’s talk about the guy that is all about function. The flannel isn’t a fashion statement. It isn’t the shirt that is going to get you attention. The flannel is a functional garment that allows you to stay warm and get the job done. This is the guy who wears the flannel as something specifically as a tool of his trade. Or something quick as he heads out the door.

There are two ways to accomplish this look. The first is to wear your everyday flannel open over a tee or a henley when you notice the weather is slightly too chilled for nothing but not quite ready for a jacket. The cloth is warm and cozy with the surprising ability to remain breathable. The second way is to grab a flannel with a thick lining, something cut like a shirt and built like a jacket. Think a flannel with fleece on the inside. This shacket is a way to bridge the gap between the warmer weather and the colder weather. It is also a way to stay warm when getting it done.

As a layer

Man in flannel with hoodie
Вальдемар / Pexels

Finally, the third guy. The guy that is somewhere in between. He likes to get out there and get things done. That may even be his number one priority. But there is a part of him that cares. The part that wants to rock a flannel the way he used to see his dad do it. The guy that loves the look, the feel, maybe even the reaction of others when he wears a flannel well. This guy uses the flannel to accomplish the subtle art of layering.

If you want to layer the flannel shirt, wear it over a tee or a henley (open or closed, depending on the look you want) and pile on a jacket over it. The subtle hint of the pattern and color is a great look. If you want to wear the flannel shacket, layer it over a hoodie for a casual fall look that works whether you are in get-it-done mode or relaxing by the fire.

No matter how you decide to wear a flannel, just buying one elevates your position on the style scale. Now grab your axe and get out into the woods (or wear it to the movies, either way).

Mark McKee
Mark is a full-time freelance writer and men's coach. He spent time as a style consultant and bespoke suit salesman before…
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