It’s that time of year again. Whether you’re braving the knife-sharp winds of the Great Lakes, digging your way out of the snow in the Midwest, or trying not to drown in the off-season rains in the Pacific Northwest, jackets and coats are currently (or about to become) a part of your everyday life. If you are lucky, you already have a great leather jacket to wear, but there are some other great pieces you should pick up if you want to have a rounded collection of coats.
Like in every menswear category, there are many different types, styles, and functions of men’s outerwear. For some guys, just getting dressed is a confusing enough proposition, and then it gets more complicated when you add another layer on the outside to finish off the look. Having said that, nothing ruins a suit or a carefully planned outfit like a North Face puffer jacket.
Each jacket style has a specific use, and if we can use some industry jargon, design intent. Here are the basics of the most popular types, along with the best colors and times to use them. You can have one or all of them. Just remember — unless you’re climbing a mountain or shoveling snow off your driveway, the puffer jacket can cramp your style worse than the cold weather.
The Chesterfield
There’s a long list of coats that you can wear with a suit or other professional outfits. Top coats, overcoats, carcoats, peacoats — whatever route you intend to go, the goal is to keep the look elevated while shielding your dressed-up look from the elements. The Chesterfield is the most basic, traditional, and versatile.
Make sure your Chesterfield is of heavy wool. While warmth is an important factor for the heft of the fabric, it’s not the only reason; heavier fabrics last longer, and you don’t want to have to continue buying these coats. The color should be in the gray family, either darker charcoal or lighter shades. All of them will go with any color you wear underneath, from black to brown.
Flash it up: It may seem hard to make a coat look trendy, but that’s where accessories come in. Wear a scarf that brings some color; when possible, coordinate the scarf with your outfit underneath. Also, consider wearing a matching hat and gloves made of genuine leather for a sophisticated look.
Our pick: Ralph Lauren Brushed Till Topcoat
The Mackintosh
The raincoat has always been a necessity, sometimes an unfortunate one. There was no natural way to make the rubberized, waterproof fabric look great when the rain came pouring down. However, walking into the room dripping from the rain was always a motivator to suck it up and find a solution.
The trench coat, aptly named for its origins in the trenches of World War I, was made cool again thanks to Humphrey Bogart on the streets of Casablanca. From that point on, people tossed it on and wore it, proudly proclaiming, “I think this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship.”
The Mackintosh is a more modern version of the trench coat, just a little shorter and (sometimes) without the belt. It’s also usually a tan or camel color. Don’t be afraid to wear it with anything from a suit to a T-shirt and jeans. It’s less about keeping you warm and more about keeping you dry. However, it doesn’t cover the head, so don’t be too proud to carry an umbrella. We’re talking to you, Portland locals.
Flash it up: If you’re going to go all Humphrey Bogart with the trench coat, don’t forget the fedora or the booze. With the Mackintosh, don’t be afraid to contrast the lighter color with blacks and dark blues underneath, and fold the sleeves back to show off your watch or shirt cuffs. Also, try to keep the color tan or camel unless you’re aiming for the bright yellow Dick Tracy look.
Our pick: Burberry Mid-length Kensington Heritage
The duffle coat
The first two jackets in this list had a specific purpose — the Chesterfield for dress and the Mackintosh for rain. The duffle coat, also known as the toggle coat because of the toggle closures, is an excellent marriage between those two styles. If you so desire, you can wear this with a suit if you dress it up with a scarf, hat, and gloves. It also looks great with jeans. With that kind of versatility, this could be the first jacket to buy if you are starting over.
This coat should also be of heavier wool material in the interest of warmth and longevity. The fit should be similar to that of the Chesterfield: longer than the waist but shorter than the knees, with the sleeves extending past the shirt’s sleeves. What sets this coat apart is the toggle buttons. There’s a level of sophistication from these small details, making this coat a great way to elevate any look.
Flash it up: This jacket can look great in gray or tan. One trick is to pick a color opposite of your Chesterfield. For example, if your Chesterfield is a charcoal color, consider a tan duffle coat. However, if you want to sport a throwback to the British Royal Navy origins of this great piece, try a navy blue to put some color into your coat.
Our pick: Brooks Brothers Wool Duffle
The parka
While looking great is always a noble endeavor, there’s a point where practicality has to win out. It’s great to have all the coats above and look great while heading to work or meeting friends downtown. However, nobody cares how good you look when you’re shoveling the driveway or climbing Mount Rainier.
This coat can be whatever color you want. Go wild! Bright orange, lime green, whatever your partner thinks brings out your eyes. The idea here is warmth and functionality. You want something waterproof and lined with fur or feathers. As for fit, if it keeps the wind out and you can do jumping jacks, it fits.
Flash it up: This one isn’t about fashion, but calmer colors (black, blue, gray) go with more outfits and make it easier to match snow pants and other accessories. However, no matter what color you decide on, make sure you don’t leave with frostbite when you scale that mountain.
Our pick: Filson Foul Weather jacket
The peacoat
The peacoat is one of the more stylish of the coats on this list. While there are a lot of coats here that have a specific design intent and are to be worn in very distinct moments, the peacoat is a versatile and stylish option that will likely be your go-to for any important event.
It will be a coat that is very similar to the duffle coat in a lot of ways. Both of them are heavy wool that marry the dressy look with the warm and dry function. Both of them fit snuggly over your clothes and fall somewhere between the waist and the knees, about mid-thigh. But where the duffle coat has one single row of toggle buttons, the peacoat is often double-breasted for a more classic look.
Flash it up: While this coat looks great with a suit as an overcoat or with casual outfits like a jacket, make this coat your bridge between the two and pair this with dress denim and dress shoes or Chelsea boots to elevate the looks whether coming from the office or meeting friends for a drink.
Our pick: &Sons Trading Co. Boardwalk Peacoat
The chore coat
The idea of a chore coat is a broad term that covers a wide range of jackets and coats meant specifically to keep you warm while you work yourself to the bone. These are often waxed canvases made to move and focus on warmth, comfort, and protection from the elements.
Sometimes these are called barn coats, field jackets, ranch coats, etc. They can be corduroy, shearling, or many other variations that make them durable and dependable in whatever outdoor situation you find yourself in — even hiking or camping. Focus on something that is strong and will have longevity. Take your life into account before choosing which one you want.
Flash it up: If you want to have a rugged look and show off your manly lifestyle, pair this jacket with selvage jeans and a pair of rugged boots or chukkas. It doesn’t matter what the day brings; this look shows you are ready for anything.
Our pick: 5.11 Tactical Watch Jacket
The denim coat
Fewer coats are more classic Americana than the denim jacket. While it may have gotten its start on the ranch and in the Gold Rush, it became one of the go-to looks for the American rebels who wanted to show that they weren’t going to go quietly into the night; that they were going to stand up and fight.
These are the ultimate choice for a casual day requiring a light jacket. While you can have fun with it and wear your denim jacket with a pair of jeans, you have to be careful not to drift into Canadian Tuxedo territory. Luckily there are just as many shades of denim jackets as there are jeans, so you can mix and match them easily.
Flash it up: If you want to take this garment specifically designed for a casual look to a more elevated one, consider investing in a black denim jacket and pairing it with a black turtleneck and black chinos with dress shoes. Break the rules and embody the creative style archetype.
Our pick: Wrangler Cowboy Cut Unlined Denim Jacket
The leather jacket
We know, we said this was about everything other than a leather jacket, but sue us, we really love them.
What is it about the bad boy that women continue to fall for? Is it the unpredictability, never knowing what will happen next? Is it the desire to nurture someone on the right path? Who knows? What we do know is that the leather jacket is a staple to the bad boy look, and we want women to continue to fall for us.
Typically, brown or black are the colors you’ll find for this jacket; pick whichever is better for you. If you find yourself in a lot of black and grey, wear a black jacket. If you wear more colors like blues, greens, reds, and browns, a brown jacket is right for you. Consider matching your jacket with the color of your rugged leather boots or chukkas.
There are many types: moto jackets, single-breasted, or bombers. Do some research and try some on to see which ones fit your body type and personal style the best. If you dress formally more than you dress down, pick a nicer leather jacket with a collar. If you’re a jeans and T-shirt guy, then something distressed and more casual will get more wear.
Our pick: Overland Memphis Lambskin Leather Bomber Moto
For all of you who are braving the weather with us this winter, stay warm and look great doing it. For all of you in San Diego and Miami, until the sun returns and the flowers bloom again in the spring, we envy you.
