If you have ever watched James Bond, The Crown, or Downton Abbey, you will likely have seen the characters wearing some version of an elevated dress code known as morning dress or a morning suit. What this entails is a version of what we call black tie. While Black tie is the second highest dress code level we engage with, it is not usually worn in the day. Morning dress is worn by men at weddings, memorial services, and daytime events in the presence of The King. Perhaps the most famous time it is worn is in the Royal Enclosure at Ascot. But even if you’re not a part of the royal family and getting into the Royal Enclosure isn’t likely in your future, you can still wear this whenever you want to elevate your style a little higher in any situation.
There are some rules and regulations surrounding a morning suit, but the most obvious one is that it contrasts with evening dress. Where the black tie dress code and the white tie dress code are very conservative and straightforward, the morning dress should be brighter, colorful, and playful. Here is what to keep in mind with each piece.
The hat
Since morning dress became popular in the late 1700s in England, it is no surprise that a top hat is the most classic form of this look. Now, a top hat may feel way over the top in many situations, and for good reason. However, if you are the kind of guy who can pull this off, by all means, don’t hold back at all. Just keep in mind that if you want to wear a top hat, don’t skimp on it; get something of high quality. Otherwise, it looks like you got it from a costume store.
You should focus on a black or gray silk fur top hat to keep it as classic as the look itself. Since this look will already be an attention grabber, you don’t want to go even further into playing it up by coloring the hat with something garish. It should sit about an inch above your ear and pitched forward. The idea is to keep the brim parallel to the ground. If you want to stand out a little more, you can have the hat opposite the coat. One black and one gray. Or the more traditional matched look.
The coat
This isn’t your standard tuxedo jacket. You can’t just take your run-of-the-mill tux and try to elevate it to morning dress. This one is a very specific look, one that looks fantastic on the likes of James Bond in A View to a Kill and in numerous scenes in The Crown when the cast attended elevated events. Think more of Winston Churchill than Jay Gatsby.
You should choose a single-breasted black or grey coat with peak lapels and what are called ‘cutaway’ tails, meaning it is tapered in the front and longer in the back. If you opt for a grey morning coat, the trousers and waistcoat should be made of the same, matching cloth. The coat’s tails should fall to the back of the knee. The coat should button across the natural waistline. Finally, the top of the collar and shirt cuff should both show about a half inch.
The pants
This is the first aspect of the look that is going to deviate heavily from the more conservative black tie dress code or the white tie dress code. While you won’t be playing too far away from the traditional look, these are usually striped pants made of cashmere. You can also liven it up a little more with a houndstooth if you want to stand out. But if you have chosen gray, stick to the matching gray pants.
One thing to keep in mind with the trousers for your morning dress look: They likely won’t have belt loops. They shouldn’t have belt loops. Much like your tuxedo, they will work best with suspenders or braces, as our friends across the pond call them. These will assist the pants in draping just right to the top of the shoe instead of seeing you pull them up. This will also keep you from showing any shirt between the trousers and the waistcoat.
The shirt
When you wear your customary tuxedo, there isn’t a lot of deviation from the shirt you wear. Almost every time you wear a white shirt with black studs and cufflinks. Sometimes, you can get away with a black shirt if you do it right, but those are very special occasions. With morning dress, you can experiment a lot more with what you are wearing. Binks, blues, and even stripes are commonplace nowadays, making this look much more lively.
You should try to keep one thing in line with the old ways: The shirt should have a detachable collar and double cuffs to keep the same level of formality. That means you can’t just wear your regular tuxedo shirt. Are you noticing a pattern yet? This is going to be an entire outfit bought specifically for this look. Accept no substitutes.
The waistcoat
Do you remember when you went to prom? Shopping for those black tuxes with the same color tie and waistcoat? This isn’t that. These waistcoats are far from it, but they do take some focus to ensure they are done correctly. They are primarily black or gray (remember to match them if you choose the gray coat and trousers). However, nowadays, you can go with blue, pink, yellow, green, or cream.
The black waistcoat should be reserved for the more formal occasion or the funeral, which means if you are wearing a black set, opt for the gray waistcoat or one of the more colorful options. You can go with a single-breasted or a double-breasted option, but the double-breasted option carries a little more gravitas with it, and we prefer going that route.
The rest
Now that the big things have been addressed let’s look at the minor details. As you probably know by now, this is where the Devil lives, in the details. Here is what you should add to the look:
- Neckwear – You should wear a plain black, gray, or blue silk tie. However, you can also liven it up with a yellow or cream. You can also be a little traditional and wear a tie pin. Or, really traditional, wear an ascot, especially if you’re headed to the horserace in Ascot.
- Shoes – Here is where you catch a break. Simple black lace-up Oxfords are the go-to shoes here. No patent leather, so keep your tuxedo shoes in the closet. But do yourself a favor and make sure they are shined.
- Accessories – Opt for a pocketwatch instead of a wristwatch for a true gentlemanly look. And if you have decided to wear a top hat, don’t you dare go without the cane. If you’re going Winston Churchill, go full Winston Churchill.
