The country of Georgia, while small, has an outsized influence in the world of alcohol. Home to one of the oldest winemaking traditions in the world, Georgian ingredients and spirits are distinctive, as complex as any in the better-known regions of Italy or France. Georgian spirits and wines are also excellent for cocktails, and while relatively new to the world of modern cocktails and mixology, some Georgian restaurants are implementing innovative takes.
At Chama Mama, a local chain of Georgian restaurants in New York City, beverage director Lasha Tsatava is fully embracing this combination of tradition and innovation. “At Chama Mama,” Tsatava explains. “We take pride in bringing the rich, seasonal flavors of Georgia to life in every corner of our menu, and our cocktail offerings are no exception.”
What are Georgian ingredients?
So, what is Georgian cuisine? With a rich history, the cuisine has strong influences from Asia, Europe, and the Middle East. Bread, such as the signature cheese and egg yolk-filled khachapuri, is served alongside grilled kebabs and pomegranate molasses-laced stews, reminiscent of Persian cuisine. Wine (such as orange wine) and spirits are an important part of Georgian food history, often paired together with food for the best flavor combinations. Some of the most iconic in the country include Chacha, known as Georgian brandy, which is a favorite in the country. Made from grape pomace, the residue from the pressing process of winemaking, Chacha has a fruity, almost herbal tasting notes. Malamo gin is the classic grain spirit of the country and is quite fresh in flavor. Finally, Ambe is a spirit distilled from Rkatsiteli grape wine, originating from the Caucasus Mountains of Georgia.
However, despite this rich range of wine and spirits, when it comes to cocktails, this ancient food culture is still relatively new. “While Georgian food and wine have been paired and perfected over centuries, the art of crafting cocktails with these flavors is still a new frontier,” explains Tsatava. “To honor this, we’ve embraced the challenge with creativity and heart, crafting in-house syrups inspired by the nostalgic tastes of childhood in Georgia. Think tarragon, tangerine, feijoa, fig, walnut, rosehip, and black currant — all infused into either lemonade, mocktail, chama mama cocktail, or the classic cocktails with a unique Georgian twist.”
The unique cocktails of Chama Mama
While many of the cocktails at Chama Mama feature non-Georgian spirits like Woodford Reserve bourbon and tequila, Tsatava has created a distinctive cocktail menu that fully utilizes the heritage spirits and wines of Georgia. There’s a large selection of Georgian wines here, and while those are a great choice, the cocktails at Chama Mama can’t be found anywhere else. From walnut preserve syrups to Georgian gin, these drinks are unique.
“It’s hard to pick a favorite because I love them all,” says Tsatava. “But if I had to highlight a few, Georgia 1991, Ambe, Chama Mama Old Fashioned, Chacha Negroni, and Ajika Mary truly stand out. Each one is a signature Chama Mama creation, offering unique Georgian twists through bold flavors or distinct spirits — perfectly capturing the spirit of our culture in a glass.”
We were able to try both the Georgia 1991 and the Ambe. The Ambe, a mix of Ambe Wine Spirit, peach liquor, aloe-honey tea jam, was sweet but balanced, made complex by the addition of lemon juice and aquafaba. The Georgia 1991, named after the year Georgia officially gained independence from the Soviet Union, is a fruit-forward cocktail. Made from Georgian craft gin Malamo, Lillet Rose, raspberry puree, lemon juice, and faba foamer, this bright red cocktail is refreshing. If you love fruit in your drink, this cocktail was made for you.
Of course, owing to the tradition of pairing drinks with food in Georgia, all the cocktails at Chama Mama are best experienced with Georgian dishes. The menu at Chama Mama features many of the most famous dishes of Georgia, including the aforementioned khachapuri but also pkhali, a cold vegetable mince with ground walnuts, along with khinkali, a Georgian soup dumpling. Similar to the Chinese version, khinkali contains broth and should be eaten carefully to avoid burning one’s tongue. Add a sprinkle of black pepper to each dumpling for the best experience.
“The Chama Mama Old Fashioned pairs nicely with the nutty and savory elements of the Taste of Georgia platter and the hearty flavors of Megruli Kharcho,” explains Tsatava when asked about food pairings. “The smoky Mezcal Coma balances the fruitiness of Saperavi wine and the Pomegranate Beef Stew. For dessert, the Rosehip Espresso Martini enhances the sweetness of our desserts like the Honey Cake or Chocolate Brownie. Our Georgia 1991 goes well with the seasonal Winter Grain Salad or the Chicken Liver Pâté. Lastly, the bold, aromatic Ambe or Chacha Negroni serves as the perfect aperitif cocktail.”
