It’s pretty amazing that you can be entering the Columbia River Gorge from downtown Portland, Oregon in just about 30 minutes. The scenic expanse feels worlds away—a wonderland of waterfalls, towering cliffs, evergreens, and a massive river in between. Here exists the ideal balancing act between premiere outdoor adventure opportunities and exceptional food and drink.
Spring and summer are the best times to visit this stunning landscape. During the former season, you get every imaginable shade of green, with wildflowers to boot. During the latter season, warm days beg for a plunge into one of the countless creeks and rivers, followed by a refreshing beer and a sound meal.
Here’s your guide to the Columbia River Gorge.
Where to eat
Ferment Brewing
Occupying a modern structure in the newest stretch of Hood Rover, Ferment is an ideal stop. You can count on the beer, as it’s one of the best west coast breweries on the map. Seek out hoppy numbers like the Bright West IPA or settle into a sampler tray. Sip from a massive patio overlooking the river and enjoy watching kite-boarders as the mild winds whip through. The food is quite good, spanning pub classics to some nice vegan options.
Multnomah River Lodge
This iconic century-old lodge at the base of Multnomah Falls takes advantage of its prime location. That means a salmon-heavy menu, in the form of chowder, smoked in fettuccine, or as a proper fillet. The beer-battered onion rings hit the spot and there are comfort items like pot pie. Save room for dessert, choosing from items like chocolate hazelnut cake or marionberry cobbler. Just note that the place crowds up fast, so think about off hours or a week day drop-in. While you’re there, hike roughly 5.4 miles to the top of the falls (it’s the second tallest of its kind in the states), and, if you still have some energy, follow the creek up a ways for fewer people and more watery treasures.
Celilo
Celilo resides in Hood River, easily one of the most charming and outdoors-y towns in the Gorge. They serve up PNW-style grub sourced from area farms, like mushroom ravioli or pan-seared Coho salmon. The pastas are outstanding and the cocktail list is very much worth your time. Start with some asparagus soup or pork belly and wash it down with a local wine or Champear, a cocktail made of local pear brandy, Cava, and a lemon twist. The name refers to the gigantic falls that used to exist here before dams, when the river was truly wild and Native Americans would fish for salmon from scaffolding along the banks of the whitewater.
The Baldwin Saloon
Go wild west style restaurant in The Dalles at The Baldwin Saloon. The menu focuses on elevated bar food, like truffle fries and excellent burgers. The chowder is apparently famous and the pulled pork mac and cheese is just plain satisfying. Dining here, you’ll feel like you’re on the set of an old Clint Eastwood western. Note that the place operates like it looks, as in historic. Cash only and no reservations.
White Salmon Baking Co.
It’s no wonder people hoof it in from Portland often just for some baked goods from White Salmon Baking Co. Some of the best pastries in the region are created here, in a pleasant little cafe in the scenic town it’s named after. Really, you can’t go wrong, from the breakfast muffins and pastries to the beautiful loaves and croissant sandwiches. Stay for a coffee if you need a pick me up.
Goose and Gander
White Salmon is a fetching town and we can’t blame you if you don’t just want to eat and run after a stop at the bakery. Head over to Goose and Gander, a botanical cocktail bar that’s become a real social hub in the neighborhood. The place opened in 2023 and concocts intriguing drinks like the gin-forward Rosemary-Pear Shrub and the 86 Dignity, a mashup of butter-washed Scotch, Absinthe, candy cap mushrooms, sarsparilla syrup, and lemon. If hungry, you can dive head first into the prix fixe menu or go with some individual plates like the mushroom and burrata toast or the sticky pig ears. Steaks tend to be available, joining other entrees like pork katsu and seared halibut.
Pixan
Still in White Salmon? We don’t blame you. Pop over to Pixan for some Mexican cuisine. The loaded fries and nachos are out of this world, but we’re especially drawn to the p’aak and chips, centered around a roasted pumpkin seed dip. There’s corn truffle popcorn and you can even get a Sonoran Hot Dog like you’re in the southwest. Definitely spend some time with the taco choices if you’re in need of some added calories.
Sushi Okalani
Back on the Oregon side in Hood River is Sushi Okalani, an omakase spot celebrating 20 years of business. There’s something restorative about sushi after a day of play, not to mention the general health benefits. Dining in a tatami room is the best experience and let the staff walk you through what’s good. The menu is vast, but they’ll guide you in the right direction. Drinks wise, go with some local beer or wine or go Japanese and sample some sake.
East Wind Drive-In
This classic diner in Cascade Locks is exactly that, classic. No bells and whistles, just solid burgers and soothing soft serve. This is where you power up before a hike or replenish post-hike. Fittingly, there’s a salmon burger, joining Americana staples like BLTs, hot dogs, corn dogs, fish and chips, and more.
Consider getting the works for a picnic as well, as there are countless pull offs and state parks along the Gorge that make for great outdoor meal spots. The Brigham Fish Market in Cascade Locks is perfect for this, with lots of great smoked salmon and refreshments like huckleberry lemonade to make your al fresco meal all the more Pacific Northwest.
What to do
Hiking
One could spend a lifetime hiking in the Gorge and not covering the same ground twice. So, ask around or get a good guide book. If you’re looking for something that gives you a great taste of the area, try the short loop that is the Latourrel Falls trail. For something more involved, go with Dog Mountain on the Washington side. The 6.4-mile trek boasts an elevation gain of about 3,000 feet. That means epic photos of the Columbia River and likely some stellar flora en route.
Watch for trail head signs on the highways on both sides of the Columbia as they tend to pop up every few miles. The PCT famously runs through the area, running across the Bridge of the Gods, so that’s an option too. This writer also loves the Eagle Creek Trail, which runs more than 13 miles and is carved into basalt cliffs. Bridal Veil Falls is another fine option.
Biking
The Gorge welcomes all kinds of cyclists, from hybrid and mountain to road. Some of the best pedaling happens along the old highway, a quiet refuse from the nearby interstate that still carves its way through much of the Gorge. An easy intro is the Mosier Twin Tunnels route, which runs about 4.5 miles.
Up and away from Interstate 84 on the Oregon side is the Fruit Loop. This nearly 40-mile stretch of mostly quiet country roads meanders through the agricultural bounty of the region. Many orchards still remain but you’ll notice quite a few vineyards these days. Larch Mountain Road is another good option especially if you’re looking for a workout as it climbs to more than 4,000 feet in elevation.
Aquatic sports
Hood River is considered the windsurfing capital of America but you’ll also find kite-boarders, wing-surfers, SUP-ers, and more. You can raft in in tributaries like the White Salmon River and there are tons of angling opportunities. The Columbia is pretty swimmable in most areas and popular spots like Rooster Rock State Park are great for hanging out along the shore. Check out this swim guide for more details.
Wine tasting
There’s great wine in the area, on either side of the Columbia River. On the Oregon side, you’ll find the aforementioned Fruit Loop, home to standout wineries like Phelps Creek. On the Washington side, a bit farther to the east, opt for a tasing at AniChe Cellars or Syncline. One of my favorite spots on the entire wine map is Analemma, nestled in the gorgeous town of Mosier, halfway between Hood River and The Dalles. Because the climate changes so dramatically as you head upriver, going from rainforest to desert, the wines change dramatically to, starting with cool climate varietals like Chardonnay and drifting into options like Mencia, Picpoul, and Syrah.
Fish Ladder
Granted, the wildness of the river has been more than hampered by the dams. Yet, there remains a pulse to the Columbia and salmon are a big part of it. The fish ladder at the Bonneville Dam offers a cool snapshot of what once was, a thriving population of amazing fish that nourished an entire region. It’s a cool form of nature entertainment, watching the large fish scoot around the dam and flex their instinctive strength.
Where to stay
Skamania Lodge
Skamania Lodge is an impressive spot set right at the gateway to the Gorge in Stevenson, Washington. Make it your headquarters for a long weekend exploring the area. On site, you’ll fine stellar food and drink and well-appointed rooms. When you return from a day of adventure, you can kick back in front of the colossal great room fireplace, cocktail in hand. In addition to the main lodge, there are glamping an treehouse opportunities within the sizable property.
Tenzen Springs
For something a little more private, try Tenzen Springs, also in Stevenson. The minimalist cabins are divine and there’s even some Japanese bathhouse flair as there are geothermal spring water soaking tubs.
The Society
Arguably the lodging option with the highest cool factor, The Society is located in Bingen, Washington. It’s a converted schoolhouse, with a modern Scandinavian aesthetic, seeming to fit in naturally with the surroundings. Rooms range from hostel-style bunks to cabins and suites and there’s a high-level spa to boot. Pop over to the bar and restaurant, grab a book, bite, and drink, and get comfortable.
Hood River Hotel
Old enough for a spot on the National Register of Historic Places, Hood River Hotel is a wonderful time capsule. It’s an adaptation of what was the Mt. Hood Hotel, which first opened way back in 1888. The rooms celebrate the history and are set up with cool accents and nice decor. Plus, you’re in Hood River, just steps from great breweries, cafes, restaurants, bookstores, galleries, the river, and more.
Balch Hotel
For a taste of the old, head up and away from the Gorge a bit to Dufur, Oregon. Your reward, on top of a beautiful drive with amazing views of Mt. Hood, is the Balch Hotel. The gorgeous brick building was erected in 1907 and not much has changed within those walls since. The rooms honor the past in elegant fashion and there’s an in-house restaurant featuring breakfast service and dinner items like charcuterie, salmon cakes, and steak from locally-raised cattle. Ask about the local beers and wines while you’re at it. This is literally where you unplug, so don’t expect televisions or other digital distractions. Swap those for starry skies.
