Is your wine laced with forever chemicals? What a new study says

This stuff doesn't go away, either

By Tom Maxwell Published April 26, 2025 6:30 AM

Group toasting with wine glasses — Kelsey Knight / Unsplash

Recent tests conducted by Pesticide Action Network Europe have shown a shocking rise in the detectable levels of TFA, or triflouroacetic acid, in wines sampled from ten EU countries. TFA is a persistent breakdown product of chemicals used in refrigeration and agriculture, and is thought to pose a threat to human reproduction and liver toxicity.

The numbers are alarming. “We see an exponential rise in TFA levels in wine since 2010,” the organization wrote in their report. “TFA was not detected in wines from before 1988, while wines from 2021–2024 show average levels of 122 μg/L, with some peaks of over 300 μg/L.” Additionally, wines with higher TFA levels also demonstrated increased amounts of synthetic pesticide residues. This was expected, because TFAs have long been associated with long-lasting per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) used in pesticides. According to the EPA, PFAS substances are also found in fluorinated containers, a treatment intended to make these packages less permeable.

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An accumulating risk

For a long time, TFAs were thought to be non-toxic. Not only has that assumption been proven wrong, but the amount of TFAs that have been accumulated in the earth’s soil, water, and crops has reached the level of “global threat,” according to a recent report published in Environmental Science & Technology. “Currently, TFA concentrations are orders of magnitude higher than those of other per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances,” the report reads. “Collectively, these trends imply that TFA meets the criteria of a planetary boundary threat for novel entities because of increasing planetary-scale exposure, where potential irreversible disruptive impacts on vital earth system processes could occur.”

Pesticide Action Network Europe compared their recent findings to the only official study of TFAs ever conducted on food, conducted in 2017, and the results are dismal: TFA levels have doubled in less than a decade. “TFA, like other PFAS, is a forever chemical,” their report concludes. “Every year of inaction adds to its lasting legacy in our environment, food, and bodies – putting our health, and that of future generations, at risk.”

Topics

Liquor, Beer, Wine & Drinks

An avid home cook my entire adult life, I cut my teeth as a bartender and server in three James Beard Award winners.

Food & Drink

You won’t find claret wine in the store, but you’ve probably already had some

A corrupted name with a cool history

Red wine being poured into a glass

Perhaps you’re into period English movies (like, say, anything by Jane Austen). If so, you’ve noticed that when it’s time to break out the good stuff (you know, the bottle from the cellar that needs to be decanted), it’s always a wine called "claret." While I do enjoy the occasional Jane Austen movie, I’ve been a more consistent fan of wine -- but for the life of me, I couldn’t figure out what this claret stuff was, why it was so beloved, and where I could get my hands on it. The short answer is that "claret" is basically British slang for red wines from Bordeaux. The long answer involves ancient Romans, Eleanor of Aquitaine, English corruption of the French language, the Hundred Years’ War, and a dry, brick-red rosé that might not yet be on your radar.

The Romans, great champions of the grape themselves, did bring viticulture to the Bordeaux region -- though, to be honest, they were much more interested in the trading potential of the huge natural harbor located in the Gironde River estuary. Once the empire collapsed, so did those trade routes from the Mediterranean to northern Europe. Ultimately, Bordeaux (along with the rest of southwest France) became part of the large, powerful, and independent duchy of Aquitaine. And this is where our claret wine story begins.
Bordeaux was English for centuries

Food & Drink

Helpful wine terminology so you sound like you know what you’re talking about

Every pursuit has its buzzwords

White wine in a glass

There’s always something to be learned in the vast world of wine. Knowing a bit of the language will keep you from getting lost in translation and potentially buying something you might not like. Plus, you’ll sound informed the next time you’re in a tasting room or perusing a bottle shop, online or in person.
So, while you study up on outstanding regions like Alto Adige and unique styles like white pinot noir, pack this handy term guide with you. The list is a combination of winemaking terminology and the words industry types like to use to describe wines and their very specific styles. It might just expose you to your new favorite bottle or producer.
But first, let's start with wine terminology fundamentals. Someone has poured you a glass of wine, and told you what the varietal is -- maybe it's a malbec or a chardonnay or a blend of different grapes (more on varietals later). What's the first thing you notice? The color -- is the wine butter yellow or brick red? Next comes the nose: What do you smell? Citrus, or perhaps dried cherries?

Now, take your first sip. What's the mouthfeel? Is the wine light or heavy? What other sensations are there besides the taste? If it's a red, there could be tannins, which impart a sandpapery feeling like apple peels or strong black tea. Conversely, white wine's structure usually comes from acidity, which can present like lemon peel or yuzu. Lastly, notice the finish -- does the wine linger on the palate or get out quickly? How do the flavors resolve?
Now that you have a glass in hand, let's get specific

Food & Drink

A beginner’s guide to sweet red wines: Why they’re more exciting than you think

It's not just for red meat anymore

Glass of red wine with fruit and ice on table

When it comes to wine, it's really more about the exceptions than the rules. You could be forgiven for thinking that a glass of red should be robust like a Bordeaux or earthy like a California cab. At any rate, it should be "dry," right? Oh, no, budding wine enthusiast. I'm here to tell you about some red wines that are literally toothsome. It all started when I had my first glass of a fizzy, sweet Lambrusco, along with an Italian dessert pastry featuring dark chocolate and burnt meringue, and life got noticeably better.

Let's start with the basics: What makes a wine sweet? The answer is simple -- the amount of residual sugar left after fermentation. Grapes tend to be sweet, after all, and yeast eats sugar to produce (among other things) alcohol. By stalling the fermentation process (or back sweetening the result), a wine can taste sweet, regardless of whether the grape varietal is red or white. (There's also a thing called "noble rot," scientifically known as botrytis cinerea. Although it's a fungus, it imparts a distinctive sweetness to wines and therefore we love it.) Let's visit the wonderful world of sweet red wine.
Sparkling sweet reds: It's a thing