Craft beer lovers mark select dates on their calendars every year. There’s a lot to look forward to, from fresh-hop IPAs in September to holiday ales in December. One of the most sought-after annual releases just dropped and lets just say these beers are built for the colder months ahead.
Chicago brewery Goose Island has released the latest in its esteemed line of Bourbon County Stouts. Dark beer fans salivate over these colossal beers, aged in various whiskey barrels and sometimes treated to some fascinating adjuncts. While typically in the mold of a barrel-aged stout, the beers do vary quite a bit each year, making the release a little like an early Christmas for craft fans.
The Bourbon County tradition began in 1992 when the brewery celebrated creating its 1,000 batch a beer. To toast the occasion, they made a barrel-aged stout. And they haven’t stopped toying with this style since.
The 2024 Bourbon County lineup includes six beers housed in beefy 16.9-ounce bottles with labels showcasing the vintage. We were lucky enough to get an advanced screening of the offerings, set to go public on Black Friday.
First up, the Bourbon County Brand Original Stout (14.7%), the beer that started this whole ritual. It seems nuts in retrospect, but back in the early days, this beer was disqualified from the Great American Beer Festival on account of the fact that there was not yet a category for barrel-aged imperial stouts. This year’s version is aged for 16 months in a host of barrels from recognizable bourbon purveyors like Buffalo Trace and Four Roses. The beer shows deep chocolate notes, with a bit of dried cherry and toffee in the mix. Beyond the big cacao intro, there’s a fair amount of balance, and the finish is lasting.
Next, the Vanilla Rye Stout (14%). This one is aged in rye whiskey barrels, affording the beer a bit of comforting baking spice notes. Madagascar vanilla beans are added at the end, affording sweetness to both the aroma and flavor of this beer. While quite enjoyable on is own, we can’t help but wonder how it would do with a scoop of vanilla gelato or even as the sturdy base to a cocktail treated to a splash of bitter amaro.
The dessert-inspired stout was a bit over the top. While the Macaroon Stout (14.6%) lived up to its name, the cookie-ness overpowered the beer-ness. This beer is made with a trio of candied ginger, cocoa nibs, and coconut.
On to the Bardstown Cask Finish Stout (16%), owing its name to the distillery and Kentucky town. This one starts as an imperial stout first aged in just-emptied rye whiskey barrels. Then, on to some time in hybrid cherry and oak barrels, the same ones Bardstown uses to finish its rye whiskey. This proved to be a deft move, as you get a bit of that stone fruit and woodiness and spice that that finished process is known for. The beer is wildly fragrant, and we suggest allowing it to open up over time, which it does to great effect.
Penultimately, the Rare Stout (18%), a super-limited release, aged in a combination of King of Kentucky barrels for two full years. Smooth as satin, the extra aging really rubs off on the beer. Not only is the texture tremendous, but you get all those oaky injections, from vanilla and caramel to baking chocolate and candied fig, all playing off the malts of the beer quite well.
But the most interesting of them all was not a stout at all. The Proprietor’s Barleywine Ale showed all kinds of depth and layers. Inspired by Mexican spoon candy, the brewer looked to create something with similar ingredients. The result? A barleywine treated to guajillo chile and piloncillo, lime, and tamarind. The citrus breaks up the malty backbone beautifully and the spice on the finish from the peppers is incredibly pleasant. If there was a blue ribbon doled out, this is the beer that would proudly wear it.
Overall, the 2024’s live up to the hype and offer both new and traditional takes on the category. If you end up signing on to the Bourbon County release when it goes live, do it right. In other words, rinse your glass between tastings and use a proper glass that accentuates the nose of the beer. Even better, conduct a tasting with some friends, as beers of this magnitude can sneak up on you. Before pouring, take the beers out of the fridge for 20-30 minutes, as they’ll show better in the glass.
And if you end up with extra, as is quite possible given the towering ABVs, invite some friends over or bake with the leftovers. We’ve got our calendars marked for 2025 for the next round of releases.
Thirsty for more? Check out our recent feature on the weirdest beer styles, many of which you’ve likely never heard of before.
