Most Alberta visitors head west of the Rocky Mountains for epic destinations like Banff and Jasper. But if you head east, you’ll find yourself in one of Canada’s most underrated travel destinations — the Alberta badlands.
About 70 million years ago, North America was divided in half by a giant ocean called the Western Interior Seaway. At the time, the badlands of Alberta were a coastal environment filled with lush greenery, raging rivers, and access to the sea. Therefore, it was teeming with dinosaur life. But as time went on, climates changed and uplifting occurred (aka: The stuff that created the Rockies), and over millennia, the seas and rivers dried up. The badlands are what remain. It’s the eroded earth created by millions of years of rushing water that has since dried up, now letting visitors explore what used to be riverbeds and seafloors.
My Alberta badlands travel guide will tell you why a visit to this area is an absolute must for everyone, from outdoor enthusiasts to dinosaur lovers and more.
The badlands are perfect for outdoor adventure
Lots of travelers to Alberta go for the outdoor activities offered in the national parks like Banff and Jasper. If you love getting outdoors, you’ll find just as much to do in the badlands, just like I did. Instead of snow-capped mountains and pine trees, you can hike, bike, and camp throughout the region’s valleys, cliffs, and canyons.
What makes the badlands so special is the layers of colorful exposed rock, some of which are millions of years old. The oldest layers of rock date back to the Cretaceous period, and in some spots, you can even find the K-Pg boundary — which is a layer of sediment that has unusually high levels of iridium, marking when the asteroid hit Earth, causing the mass extinction of dinosaurs.
For outdoor adventure, check out Dinosaur Provincial Park, which gets its name because it’s loaded, and I mean loaded, with dinosaur fossils. There’s so much fossilized material there that you’ll be hiking along the trail, passing hundreds of bone fragments without even knowing it. On top of that, the park’s hoodoos, buttes, and valleys are stunning, and you’ll feel like you’re walking on the surface of the moon. To really get the most out of it, take a guided hike with a ranger who can point out all the fossils along the way.
There’s also Midland Provincial Park, which has fantastic hiking trails and paved bike paths that weave throughout the badlands. The added benefit of Midland is that the Royal Tyrrell dinosaur museum sits inside the park, so you can easily hit a trail (many start right from the parking lot) after leaving the museum.
When I visited, I joined a tour with Bikes and Bites. The company runs guided e-bike tours that start in the town of Drumheller and head out to Midland Provincial Park. The journey takes you along a riverside trail and up and down the hills of the Midland. Even better, they provide freshly made lunch! Tours range from 1 hour to 5 hours, depending on where and how far you want to go.
The badlands are loaded with dinosaur history
The Alberta badlands are known as the “dinosaur capital of the world.” Not only does it have one of the highest concentrations of fossils on the planet, but because it was surrounded by so much water, the region is loaded with some of the best-preserved fossils on the planet.
The Royal Tyrrell Museum is a must-visit for everyone because it’s packed with fossils found right in the badlands, including a few full skeletons (which are not easy to find). Most museums have plaster casts of fossils, but at Royal Tyrrell, you can see actual bones and some of the largest intact complete skeletons anywhere in the world.
Dinosaur Provincial Park is another great spot to learn more about dinosaurs. Part of the park is even closed off to the public because it’s still being used for active paleontological digs. The park offers dozens of guided tours of various lengths and difficulties (some lasting as much as four hours) that give you exclusive access to the park’s bonebeds, all while an expert answers your questions and tells you about the dinosaurs that once called the region home.
The badlands are incredibly beautiful
The thing that shocked me the most about the badlands was how unbelievably beautiful they were. My previous trips to Alberta had been to Banff, so I was used to seeing mountains and forests. Knowing the badlands were more like arid rock formations and meadows instead of epic wilderness, I initially questioned how much I’d like it. But then I saw the stunning canyons and the way the sunset showed off all the colors of the rock, and I immediately loved it all.
Horsethief Canyon is a fantastic spot for photos and exploring, and it’s an easy stop on the Dinosaur Trail, which is a short 30-mile road trip loop around Drumheller that takes you up and down the badlands. Go during the golden hour and you’ll get some of the best pictures of your life.
Drumheller is a quirky and fun little town
The biggest town within the badlands is Drumheller, and despite its tiny size, it has lots to do and explore. First up is the “World’s Largest Dinosaur,” which is 100% a tourist trap, but is also undeniably fun and hilarious. Plus, it makes for a great cheesy photo op.
Drumheller also has some fantastic local businesses, like Valley Brewing, which makes a variety of beers and sodas, and has a great outdoor seating area next to manicured gardens.
I also had some surprisingly great boba and iced tea at Lois + Ani, and just a short drive from town, there’s fantastic food at the Last Chance Saloon. The divey spot has been a community staple since 1913 and it’s loaded with kitsch and great food. If you’re really feeling adventurous, there’s even a small inn above the saloon with themed rooms like the Titanic Room, Cowboy Room, and Miner’s Room.
Where to stay in the badlands
So, here’s the thing … the badlands are becoming a popular travel destination, but they attract nowhere near the crowds of the national parks. It’s great because you get to actually experience nature and the community without feeling like you’re waiting in line at a theme park. However, it also means the tourism infrastructure isn’t as built up, so there aren’t any resorts or fancy hotels.
During my visit, we stayed at the Ramada in Drumheller (which has its own indoor pool, waterslide, and hot tub), and there’s also the nearby SureStay by Best Western that also has its own indoor pool, waterslide, and hot tub. For a more local experience, the Heartwood Inn is a well-reviewed inn with gracious hosts and a variety of room styles. Travel Alberta has a full list of the area’s accommodations you can check out, too.
